Goat kids on this page are Previous year kids and NOT FOR SALE!

Welcome to the World of Nigerian Dwarf Goats!

Why Choose Nigerian Dwarf Goats?
Nigerian Dwarf goats are a charming and versatile breed, prized for their small adorably tiny size, friendly temperament, and high-quality, and great-tasting milk production. 

1. Size and Space: They're adorably small and compact, which makes them suitable for farms with limited space or even urban settings with smaller backyards.
2. Milk Production: Despite their size, they produce a substantial amount of high-quality milk, which is rich in butterfat, making it ideal for dairy products like cheese and yogurt.
3. Temperament: They are known for their friendly and gentle nature, which makes them great pets, especially for families with children.
4. Appearance & Show: With their colorful coats and some even with striking blue eyes, they're quite charming and visually appealing.  They are a favorite among breeders and judges, which can lead to rewarding experiences and accolades in goat shows.
5. Maintenance: They require relatively low maintenance compared to larger livestock, making them a manageable choice for small-scale farmers and hobbyists.

Important Warning When purchasing livestock:
Always choose from a clean, tested herd.  A cheap goat can lead to high vet bills and herd infections and culling. Investing in healthy animals initially prevents future heartache and financial strain. 

Goats are Herd animals! You can NOT have just one! It's important to note that you cannot have only one goat; goats are social animals and need companionship. Due to feeding differences, it's best for pets to have at least two of the same gender but lets get into that more below.

Male vs. Female Nigerian Dwarf Goats
When deciding between male and female Nigerian Dwarf goats, it's essential to consider their differences: 

Females (Does):
Does are generally more docile and easier to manage. They do not emit the strong odor that bucks do. Females are obviously preferred for milk production. It is important to note that does experience a heat cycle every 21 days, which can lead to increased vocalization and restlessness. To maintain their optimal health, females should receive grain consistently throughout their lives, in contrast to males. (Refer to the section on males for further details.)
 
Wethers:
Are castrated males, these Wethers are considered ideal pets due to their friendly and docile nature. Unlike bucks, they do not possess a strong odor and are much less likely to exhibit aggressive behavior, making them excellent companions for both humans and other goats. It is important to monitor their dietary requirements and provide grains containing ammonium chloride to prevent urinary calculi. Although wethers are castrated, they may still bother does during their breeding cycles, not a big deal and some find it cute to watch them "blabber talk".  IMPORTANT TO NOTE that Bucklings should not be castrated before 8 weeks of age, with the optimal period being at 12-16 weeks to allow for maximum urethral growth, thus reducing the risk of urinary calculi. Castration can be performed using a simple and cost-effective banding tool, with various instructional videos available on YouTube. Male goats should receive grain during their first 8 months, supplemented with ammonium chloride to prevent urinary calculi, after 8 months old they only need their free choice hay and minerals.    
 
Males (Bucks):
Bucks are used for breeding and are NOT ideal pets. They are usually larger, more aggressive during breeding season, and have a strong odor due to scent glands and rut seasons. Keep intact bucks separate to avoid unwanted breeding and aggression. Bucks can affect milk flavor from does should they be houses close or with does, making it taste unpleasant.  Ensure a 6-foot fence prevents their escape when does are in heat. Bucks do require ammonium chloride as well until you stop their grains at 8 months.   
 
Registered vs. Non-Registered Goats
When considering Nigerian Dwarf goats, it's essential to understand the importance of registration:

• Does (Females): It's a good idea to purchase registration papers for does. If you decide to sell or breed them in the future, having the papers will make the process much easier and ensure their value. Additionally, kids from registered parents typically sell quicker than those from non-registered parents.
• Bucks (Males): Since bucks are primarily used for breeding, they should always have registration papers. This ensures that their offspring can be registered, maintaining the breed's standards and value.
• Wethers: Wethers do not need registration papers because they are kept as pets. There's no need to spend extra money on registration for wethers, as it doesn't provide any additional benefits.

 
Fencing:

• Proper fencing for goats is essential. If there is ONE thing you must do before you buy goats, it is to construct a safe and secure fence. Goats like to rub on fences, which is the main issue with wire fencing—they push on it to scratch. Sturdy wire is needed, or hot wire strands to keep them away from the wire and perhaps scratching posts could help.  They also try to stick their heads through openings and are very clever about getting out of their enclosures. Sufficient goat fencing needs to be escape-proof: high and tight. Our does use 4' fencing towards our home and 5’ in the back at the woods, I suggest 5 foot or more.  We haven't had an issue, but I have seen some kids jump right over a 4’ fence to get to their owners. So keep this in mind; I cannot guarantee 4' is sufficient.  Neighborhood dogs are the primary predators of goats in this area, and we also have bears. Therefore, it is crucial to ensure a dog cannot jump over their fence, you may need hot wire if bears are common in your area.  
• SEE image of our Buck pen at top of page and note the fence is NOT in the front of shed, we feel the best way to fence your shed is to NOT fence the front entrance, this will allow access to the front doors without having to trample through the goat’s muddy run on those mornings or nights you are not in your work clothes. So, fence from sides of shed & out the back and add a chicken like "pop door" out the back for the goats to use.

Housing: 

• Housing: Nigerian Dwarf goats need a well-ventilated shed or barn for cover, sleeping, and protection from predators, wind, sun, cold, and heat in summer, as well as winter conditions. A three-sided structure is not enough. Goats need to be locked in at night to prevent predator access. You’ll also need somewhere to safely store their grains to keep rodents at bay and goats from getting into it, and somewhere to dispose of their soiled bedding, such as a compost pile. Goats waste a lot of hay, and I mean A LOT OF HAY is wasted, (research no waste hay feeders) so proper disposal of soiled bedding is essential. Your structural needs will increase if you plan to breed and/or milk your goats, as you will also need kidding pens and a designated milking area. Adding a chicken pen-like small "pop door" for winter helps them keep even warmer compared to having the large door open, and a window in the pen is a plus for even more ventilation and light needed in winter months. However, use caution and wire/heavy screening on the inside of window to prevent them from breaking it!


• Housing Setup Example: An effective housing setup can involve a cheap used shed split in half, with one half for the goats and the other half for hay storage. Adding cheap linoleum to the floor on the goat side can make cleaning easier and help the floor last longer. The double doors allow you to access the hay area without needing to open the other side of the double door where the goats are.  Ventilation should be added to the two peaks of the shed for optimal airflow. This setup works well for any gender.  ​I will add a video of our BUCK pen to the bottom of this page, I believe the shed for our 2 bucks is 10' deep x 14' long. 

 
Hay and Nutrition

• Hay: Free choice 2nd cutting orchard grass hay should be available at all times. Nigerian Dwarf goats need a covered hay feeder outside year-round, with an additional small hay feeding area inside for the winter months. Always keep the hay dry and accessible. For the first 8 months, the kids should have hay 24/7, so you'll need to provide hay inside even in the summer. After 8 months old, they don't need hay inside during the summer as long as you let them out early and lock them in later at dark. Wasted hay will build up quickly and cause more work for you. We estimate a grown adult to eat about 1 "slice" of hay each day.
• Bedding and Odor Control: Using agriculture lime for livestock is a cost-effective way to keep smells at bay and control parasites. A layer of lime on the floor before adding bedding is recommended. Large pine shavings (never cedar) are ideal for summer bedding and can be cleaned as needed. During the winter, deep bedding helps keep goats warm. DE Diatomaceous earth is also great for parasites and bugs in the pen.
• Diet and Nutrition: A balanced diet is crucial for these goats. They need quality hay for fiber and grains for nutrition. Fresh water should always be available. Goats love warm water, especially in colder months. Sweet goat feed is available at local mills or Tractor Supply stores; buying local when available is recommended. For information on grain feeding males, refer to the wether and buck section.
• Minerals: All goats will need free choice minerals inside at all times. Minerals can get wet in humidity and goats won't eat them, so take half a cup out here and there as needed. Goats tend to eat more minerals during the winter months. We use Sweetlix Meat Maker for goats. Never use a sheep mix, as it does not have the needed copper for goat food. Some people also use Manna Pro brand goat mineral for ease of purchasing at Tractor Supply. We also feed our does free choice kelp to help with zinc and other beneficial minerals and vitamins; it's not necessary but can be very beneficial. Additionally, baking soda is given free choice to our does but not the bucks. Huber's Animal Health sells livestock baking soda in big bags at a reasonable price.
• VACCINES: Our pregnant does receive a CDT injection 1 month prior to kidding so kids carry immunity until 4 to 6 weeks of age, it is then that a CDT vaccine is needed and a 3-week booster thereafter.  Then goats need a CDT annual, please research pregnant doe needs in regard to vaccines if you plan to breed.  Many times, goats will have a site reaction to vaccines, this is normal, and infections will go away, if needed clean area and use an antibacterial cream.
• DEWORMINGS: Kids will be dewormed before leaving, Please Learn FAMACHA, google it and see how its done with goats.  You will need to follow up deworming in 10 days after your kid leaves and research on deworming goats and how to deal with worm loads etc, this is important.   
• COCCIDIA and young kids:  The Bane of all breeders, AND YOU NEED TO KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR IT.  PLEASE put your kids on a coccidia prevention, speak with your vet about dimethox aka sulfa medication or other med to have on hand in emergency or use as a preventative measure, medicated feed doesn’t work very well with coccidia.  If a goat kid has diarrhea chances are it was overfed, got into bad food or has coccidia and needs treatment ASAP.   Ps... Toltrazuril which is a coccidiosis preventative and can be found without an rx, I think its from Australia so have it on hand before you get kids.  If we keep kids here, we ALWAYS do a preventative protocol, speak with your vet about it. Toltrazuril 5% - 240ML for Horses: Protozoal & Coccidiosis Treatment.
• How to Wage War on Worms and Coccidia in Goats – Mother Earth News
• HOOVES: We trim hooves as needed, but also we have a QUARTERLY goat protocol, hooves, deworming, copper bolus, parasite preventions and so forth. Fias Co Farm- Hoof Trimming- Right Front
• Local Supplies: We use Huber's Animal Health in Richland, PA, for all our animal needs, including feed, medicines, and vaccines, needles syringes etc. However, our hay is locally sourced from farmers to ensure the best quality and support local agriculture.

Veterinary Care

• It's essential to have a livestock vet lined up for any medical needs or emergencies. A vet experienced with goats will be invaluable in maintaining the health of your herd and addressing any issues that may arise especially when you need medicines. Although you certainly can do your own vaccinations, deworming, and hoof trimming when necessary to ensure the well-being of your goats. Youtube has tons of educational videos.

 
Disbudded, horned or Polled Goats
Disbudding is the process of removing the horn buds of young goats to prevent them from growing horns. It is important for several reasons:

• Safety: Horns can injure both goats and handlers. Disbudded goats are less likely to harm themselves or others.
• Housing: Goats without horns are less likely to get stuck in fencing or other enclosures, reducing the risk of injury.
• Shows and Pets: Many goat shows require disbudded animals. Disbudded goats are also preferred as pets due to their reduced risk of injury.

Some goats can be naturally polled, meaning they are born without horn buds. However, if your goat is not naturally polled, disbudding is a necessary step to ensure their safety and well-being.  ALL goats that leave Lil Swatara will either be polled or have been disbudded at 3 days to 2weeks old depending on gender and initial size. A goat may scur (A scur is a partial horn that can regrow after a goat has been disbudded) but if you catch them before 6 to 8 weeks old can be redone and corrected, do not wait to fix the issue.  Boys tend to scur before females.

TOXIC PLANTS ETC: It's important to be aware of plants that are toxic to goats, as they can pose serious health risks. Common plants that are poisonous to goats include cherry trees, rhododendrons, and azaleas. These plants, along with many others, can cause a range of symptoms from mild digestive upset to severe illness or even death. To ensure the safety of your goats, it is essential to research and familiarize yourself with the toxic plants specific to your area. By doing so, you can take preventive measures to keep your goats away from these harmful plants and maintain a safe environment for them.

This inexpensive and simple goat pen is our two-buck used shed purchased and delivered from a local shed store. Half of this shed stores all our herd's hay, holding 40 bales. Our shed has a small loft that could have been removed for more hay storage, but this is plenty for herd of 10 goats. Does are not in this pen. This setup with hay storage will house approximately 2 does maybe 3 wethers, but 2 bucks because they tend to fight and are larger. If you have an area to store hay elsewhere this can hold a lot more livestock!

Ammonium Chloride is needed for ALL MALE GOATS until grain is stopped around 6 to 8 months old. Bander and bands are cheap on amazon.

Great local place for all your needs, pine shavings for summer bedding, vaccines, meds, minerals, feeds, dewormers and more.

CDT at 6 weeks and booster at 9weeks, then annually. this is the type we use. Hubers or TSC has this, hubers sells individual needles and syringes, as well as feed, mineral etc.

Why and how to do FAMACHA Scoring YOU MUST KNOW HOW TO CHECK GOATS CORRECTLY WATCH THIS VIDEO! It's not just pulling eyelid down!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5rcuvVG56Q